A typical 1800s Lisbon apartment with some modern comforts

We live in a beautiful 1812 building constructed in the Pombalino style (post-earthquake architecture that emphasized egalitarianism, stability in case of quakes, insulation using tiles, and ground-floor businesses), restored lovingly by the owners of the five apartments inside, three of whom are architects. Ours has one large bedroom taken over by the children, a small guest room now used as the adults' bedroom, two small offices, a kitchen with a dining nook for 4 with a gorgeous view of the bridge and sunsets, a cozy living room with a piano and a projector for watching movies, and a small balcony overlooking a typical Lisbon street, complete with trollies, and the Tejo river and its boat traffic and sunrises. The apartment is on the 4th floor (European), with no elevator. We find that it keeps us and our children in shape. There's a washer/dryer combo and a dishwasher, and air-conditioning in the big bedroom.

About the location

Santos-o-Velho, depending on whom you ask, is either part of Lapa — the most desirable postal code in the city — or of Estrela — a mixed neighborhood that traditionally attracted middle- and working-class families as well as the occasional embassy. Our street has a Goan, an Indonesian, an Angolan, a Brazilian and two Portuguese restaurants, and a bar, and the street is typically quiet after 10pm unless there's a football game with the Portuguese playing. We are within a 5-10 minutes' walk from several small markets, including one famous for its organic food, several breakfast and brunch spots, at least 5 decent croissant shops, many traditional spaces still popular with the multigenerational families from the area serving affordable food with no pretense, a good butcher, a jazz bar, a music venue hosting African musicians, a couple of nightclubs, the French Embassy, Museu de Arte Antiga, the Marionette Museum, several art galleries, and at least three churches. The buses down the street take you to the city center in about 10-15 minutes and to Belem's museums and sights in about 20. A ferry 10-15 minutes' walk away can take you across the river, connecting to buses that go to the beaches around Costa Caparica, while a train 5 minutes away from our building will take you to the beaches including Carcavelos (surfing, families, students) and Estoril and Cascais (more see-and-be-seen, but also connecting to the wilder beaches such as Praia do Guincho). There is some street parking free between 7pm and 8am, and a parking garage 5 minutes away.

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